Extras you are responsible for: These include transportation to and from Talkeetna, optional lodging outside of AMS in Talkeetna, personal equipment and clothing, rental items from the Mountain Shop, travel and medical insurance, and gratuities.

The Traverse starts with climbing the West Buttress in traditional expedition style: relaying loads, establishing camps and climbing slowly enough for proper acclimatization. The first nine miles of the route are up the Kahiltna Glacier. We often arrive at 14,200 feet on the eighth day. The views of Mt. Hunter and Mt. Foraker from here are amazing. After 4–5 days acclimatizing, resting, and making a carry to 16,200 feet, we depart for the upper mountain. Between 15,500 feet and 16,200 feet are 40-45° slopes, so we climb clipped to a fixed rope to safeguard our movements. We often place a camp at the top of the fixed ropes at 16,200 feet to break up the climb or, as needed, to wait for better weather. The stretch to high camp at 17,200 feet is a scenic part of the route and climbs a narrow ridge to 17,200 feet. Here, when the weather is suitable, we begin our move up and over the mountain via Denali Pass to 18,000 feet on the Harper Glacier. Summit day is somewhere between the fifteenth and twentieth day of climbing. Descent is via the Harper Glacier to Browne Tower (14,600′) on the northeast side of Denali, down the snow crest of Karstens Ridge to the Muldrow Glacier and on to McGonagall Pass (5,720′), leaving the ice behind. We then enter the green of summer, tundra hiking and river wading to Wonder Lake and then the road back to Talkeetna.

This itinerary is a rough guide. Our style on the mountain is flexible and will fluctuate on a 24 hour basis depending on conditions. With lucky weather, most expeditions return a day or two early. Un-flyable weather and/or storms at high camp may result in delays. It is possible at high camp for us to extend the length of the expedition and allow more time for those who wish to tough it out and who have a flexible schedule.

Day 1
1:00 p.m., meet at AMS: Orientation and gear check, with time to rent or purchase gear from the AMS store and to select and pack mountain lunches. 4:00 p.m. team NPS registration and orientation. You are free at 6:00 p.m. to enjoy the evening in Talkeetna.

Day 2
8:00 a.m., meet at AMS: Denali skills review, lunch at AMS; final packing, weighing, and loading gear for a 2:00 p.m. flight to 7,200 ft, Base Camp; distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6,850 ft.

Day 3
Base Camp to 7,800 ft: Glacier travel and crevasse rescue drill, pack and single to 7,800 ft, Camp 1; distance: 5.5 miles, elevation gain: 600 ft.

Day 4
Carry to 9,700 ft, Kahiltna Pass; distance: 5 miles (RT), elevation gain: 1,900 ft.

Day 5
Move to 11,000 ft, Camp 2; distance: 4 miles, elevation gain: 3,200 ft.

Day 6
Back carry to 9,700 ft.; distance: 2 miles (RT). Acclimatization / weather contingency day at 11,000 ft, Camp 2.

Day 7
Carry to 13,500 ft, around Windy Corner; distance: 3.5 miles (RT), elevation gain: 2,500 ft.

Day 8
Move to 14,200 ft, Camp 3; distance: 2.75 miles, elevation gain: 3,200 ft.

Day 9
Back carry 13,500 ft cache; distance: 2 miles (RT), elevation gain: 700 ft.

Day 10
Carry to 16,200 ft; distance: 2 miles (RT), elevation gain: 2,000 ft.

Day 11
Acclimatization / weather contingency day at 14,200 ft camp, Camp 3.

Day 12
Move to 17,200 ft, Camp 4; distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 3,000 ft.

Day 13
Carry to 18,000 ft, distance: 2 miles (RT), elevation gain: 1,000 ft up and over Denali Pass, 18,200 ft.

Day 14:
Move to 18,000 ft, Camp 5, distance 1 mile: elevation gain: 1,000 ft. Option to summit.

Days 15, 16, 17, 18, 19
Summit day / weather contingency days, 20,310 ft; distance: 3.5 miles (RT), elevation gain: 2,120 ft; descent to Upper Harper, 18,000 ft.

Day 20
Descend to Browne Tower, distance: 3 miles.
Day 21
Descend Karstens Ridge and Muldrow Glacier, distance: 6 miles.

Day 22
Hike out via McGonagall Pass, distance: 12 miles.

Day 23
Hike across the tundra and cross the McKinley River, distance: 15 miles.

Day 24
Take NPS bus to park entrance, 70 miles, and AMS van pickup to return to Talkeetna.

Denali’s Traverse requires a significant amount of prior climbing experience and training. The better condition you are in, the more you will enjoy the climb, the safer it will be for you, and the better chance for reaching the summit. This mountain is too severe to be learning some skills for the first time. Applicants should be in excellent physical condition and should have the following experience:

• Mountaineering climbs that required roped glacier travel, winter snow camping, and the use of an ice axe and crampons.
Winter camping and travel experience for extended periods of time. This is essential training, since cold on Denali is a daily challenge.
• Familiarity with the figure-eight knot series, rope coiling, and belaying with a munter hitch
• Ability to arrest a fall on a steep snow slope
• Ability to use crampons with a 65-plus pound pack on slopes up to 30–35°. Some sections of the route require you to bend down and clip through running belays.
• Experience on smaller climbs such as smaller peaks in the Alaska Range, winter climbs of Mt. Washington, Colorado 14’ers, Mt. Rainier, the Tetons, or Mount Blanc.

Acclimatization is key to high-altitude mountaineering success. AMS’ expedition-style climbing strategy gives everyone the best chance to acclimate to a lower oxygen environment. However, a non-technical, high-altitude climb is a great way to train for the altitude as is day climbing, hiking, and sleeping at altitude in the weeks before you arrive. Our best prepared expedition members have taken a mountaineering course and trained for a year or more before joining an expedition.

The traverse was really a once in a lifetime experience. I was up for a challenge and I certainly got it!
—Jeff Leigh

AMS is a top-notch guiding company and the best in the field. This was an absolutely perfect trip!
—Bob Gilman

I liked how they treated everyone fairly, as individuals. This fostered team unity throughout the trip.
— Jim Nelson

A first class operation, run locally by people who know the mountain.
—Si Matthies

The climb starts at Kahiltna Base and travels up the Kahiltna Glacier to the base of Ski Hill and the intersection of the Northeast Fork. Our next camp is “Safe” Camp in the Northeast Fork. After negotiating an ice fall, we establish camp in the bergshrund at the base of the Chicken Couloir. Using fixed lines, we climb the couloir and cache. The following day, we climb to 12,900’ and establish the Apex Camp. Climbing along the ridge, we establish the next camp in a bergshrund. Continuing along the ridge, the next good camp location is in a bergshrund at 16,300’. When the team is well-rested and the route is in suitable climbing condition, we leave for the summit, otherwise a higher camp is established. Picking our way through the rock bands high on the south face of Denali is an awesome mountaineering experience. The West Rib proper ends at 19,300’ when we exit onto a large plateau called the Football Field. A final climb along the summit ridge leads to the top. Summit day can take up to 16 hours by the time we return to Camp. From our High Camp, we descend onto the West Buttress route at Basin Camp and return to Kahiltna Base via the West Buttress Route.

This itinerary is a rough guide. Our style on the mountain is flexible and will fluctuate on a 24 hour basis depending on conditions. With lucky weather, most expeditions return a day or two early. Un-flyable weather and/or storms at high camp may result in delays. It is possible at high camp for us to extend the length of the expedition and allow more time for those who wish to tough it out and who have a flexible schedule.

Day 1
1:00 p.m., meet at AMS: Orientation and gear check, with time to rent or purchase gear from the AMS store and to select and pack mountain lunches. 4:00 p.m. team NPS registration and orientation. You are free at 6:00 p.m. to enjoy the evening in Talkeetna.

Day 2
8:00 a.m., meet at AMS: Denali skills review, lunch at AMS; final packing, weighing, and loading gear for a 2:00 p.m. flight to 7,200 ft, Base Camp; distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6,850 ft.

Day 3
Base Camp to Ski Hill, 7,800 ft: Glacier travel and crevasse rescue drill, pack and single to 7,800 ft, Camp 1; distance: 5.5 miles, elevation gain: 600 ft.

Day 4
Carry to “Safe” Camp, 9,500 ft, distance: 6 miles, elevation gain: 1,700 ft.

Day 5
Move to “Safe” Camp, 9,500 ft, Camp 2, distance: 3 miles, elevation gain: 1,700 ft.

Day 6
Carry to Couloir Camp, 11,000 feet, distance: 3 miles, elevation gain: 1500 ft.

Day 7
Move to Couloir Camp, 11,000 feet, Camp 3, distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain: 1,500 ft. Fix lines up the Chicken Cou-loir in the evening.

Day 8
Carry to 12,900 ft, distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 1,900 ft.

Day 9
Move to the Rib, 13,900 ft, Camp 4, distance: 0.75 mile, ele-vation gain: 2,900 ft. Pick up cache, distance: .5 mile, elevation gain: 1,000 ft.

Day 10
Rest day / acclimatization / weather contingency day at 13,900 ft camp, Camp 4.

Day 11
Carry to the West Rib cut-off at 15,800 ft, distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 1,900 ft.

Day 12
Move to Upper Ridge Camp, 16,300 ft, Camp 5, distance: 0.75 mile, elevation gain: 2,400 ft.

Days 13, 14, 15, 16,17,18,19
Summit days, weather contingency days, 20,310 ft, distance: 2.5+ miles, elevation gain: 4,000 feet.

Day 20
Descend to 14,200 ft, distance: 1 mile.

Day 21
Descend to Base Camp, 7,200 ft, distance: 11.25 miles.

Day 22
Fly back to Talkeetna.

As an advanced climb, the Rib requires a dedicated training regime and a significant amount of prior climbing experience. The mountain is too severe to be learning some skills for the first time. Applicants should be in excellent physical condition and should have the following experience:

• Steep mountaineering climbs that required roped glacier travel, winter snow camping, and the extensive use of an ice axe and crampons.
• Experience at altitudes above 15,000′
• Technical winter climbing and winter travel experience for extended periods of time. This is essential training, since cold on Denali is a daily challenge.
• Familiarity with knots, rope coiling, and belaying with gloves and mittens
• Ability to arrest a fall on a steep icy snow slope with a pack
• Ability to use crampons with a 60-plus pound pack on slopes up to 40°. Some sections of the route require you to bend down and clip through running belays.
• Ability to clip through running belays efficiently
• Ability to move to high camp with a single load

A non-technical, high-altitude climb is a great way to train for the altitude. Our most prepared expedition members have taken a mountaineering course, climbed Denali’s West Buttress, and trained for a year or more before joining our West Rib expedition.

Perfect trip, professionally guided, good organization and sense of humor!
— Elisabetta Pallavicini, Upper West Rib Expedition

The guides MADE the trip. The route was great, but the guides made it spectacular.
— Steve Gabbert, Denali Upper West Rib

Given the weather window, our guides put us on the summit perfectly. It would not have been possible without them.
— Fred McGuinness, Denali Upper West Rib

A first class operation — run locally by people who know the mountain.
— Si Matthies, Denali Upper West Rib