Michael Hutchins

Michael Hutchins

Guide


Michael is a talented teacher and leader who began working with AMS in 2016, where he guides Denali expeditions and teaches courses. He is known for his patience, good humor, and full technical climbing skill set. Climbing and mountain travel are second nature to Michael, who began technical climbing in his youth in the Cascades Range in Washington State. His background is rich and varied: he was a climbing ranger on Mt. Rainer and taught rigging courses. Michael has many notable climbs under his belt: Yosemite’s El Capitan: Zodiac (A3 VI 5.7-5.10) and Washington Column: Astroman (1000′ V 5.11c); Montana’s Sphinx Mountain (1500’V WI5 M4); Mount Rainier’s Mowich Face (9200′ IV AI 3-4); Hyalite Canyon’s Maid of the Mist Mountain, Maid of Choss (first ascent, 600’WI5+ 5.9); South Early Winter Spire’s Hitchhiker (900’IV 5.11b); Juno Tower’s Clean Break (1500’V 5.10c); and Liberty Bell’s Liberty Crack (1200’V 5.11 C2); as well as two trips in Nepal to Rolwaling and Khumbu. Among his many talents, Michael is proficient in Spanish; he speaks and understands German. He has a BS in Earth Sciences with a snow emphasis from Montana State University. His certifications include EMT, AMGA Alpine Skills, Rigging for Rescue, NPS Rescue helicopter crewmember, and Avalanche II.

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Larry Holmgren

Larry Holmgren

Guide


Coming to AMS in 2007, Larry’s extensive experience guiding Denali expeditions and instructing mountaineering courses for the school makes him a valuable asset. As a year-round professional mountain guide, he spends an impressive average of 150 days per year in the field. When not working for AMS, Larry leads high-altitude expeditions on Aconcagua in Argentina and on Mt. Vinson in Antarctica. He also guides multi-day raft-based fly fishing trips in remote parts of western Alaska. To thaw out from his time in the mountains, Larry can be found exploring far-flung tropical locations with his partner and his son.

  • BA in Outdoor Studies, Alaska Pacific University
  • Wilderness First Responder
  • Leave No Trace Trainer
  • Avalanche Level II
  • Swiftwater Rescue
  • NRA Shotgun Safety
  • Rigging for Rescue
  • Languages: English (Native speaker), Indonesian (Conversational)

Josh Hoeschen

Josh Hoeschen

Guide


A long-time AMS guide, Josh is our Operations Manager and is based at our headquarters in Talkeetna. He oversees expedition and course management, including fieldwork, briefings, communications, staffing, and strategy. He joined the school in 2006 and has been guiding Denali expeditions and custom technical climbs, instructing mountaineering and skills-specific courses, and working on film production assignments ever since. Along with his work at AMS, Josh works during the (Alaskan) winter months as a mountain guide in Antarctica and as an adjunct faculty member for Alaska Pacific University, his alma mater. In his spare time, when not guiding or exploring Alaska’s wilderness, Josh can be found playing music and inventing some of the greatest forms of punctuation, like the Question mark.

  • BA in Wilderness Leadership, Alaska Pacific University
  • Wilderness First Responder
  • Leave No Trace Trainer
  • Avalanche Leave II
  • Rigging for Rescue
  • NRA Shotgun Safety
  • Languages: English (Native speaker)

Tim Hewette

Tim Hewette

Guide


Tim has led Denali expeditions, taught courses and custom programs, and worked on film production assignments for AMS. He lives and works in Alaska, Utah, and Antarctica. He is a veteran Denali guide and has guided a wide range of climbers to Denali’s summit, including in 2016 an expedition comprised of Navy Seals and in 2004 a custom climb including the oldest man to summit. When he’s not guiding in the Alaska Range, he is the Field Operations Manager for Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions. Tim also occasionally revisits working as a big-game hunting guide in remote Alaska. Tim is an avid paraglider and long-distance multisport backcountry wilderness traveler.

  • Four-time recipient of Denali National Park's Pro Pin award for mountain rescue
  • BA Outdoor Studies from Alaska Pacific University
  • Wilderness First Responder since 2002, Leave No Trace Trainer, certified in Avalanche II
  • Notable climbs: Vinson, Denali, Mt. Hunter, Aconcagua, and the South Pole

Peter Hackett

Peter Hackett

Medical Director


Peter is AMS’s medical director and primary medical consultant. He is the coauthor of our yearly revised backcountry medical protocols. Dr. Hackett is a world authority on high-altitude medicine and physiology and has contributed much of his life to understanding altitude-related illnesses. In 1982, he established the medical camp at 14,200 ft on Denali to study and assist climbers suffering from cold and altitude-related illnesses. At his home in Colorado, Peter is an ER doctor and ski patroller. He occasionally goes on world tours with legendary rock bands. Peter lectures at AMS annually and teaches our guides the standard protocols and most recent findings of high-altitude medicine and cold-related injuries. He keeps our protocols top-notch, accurate, and current.


Michael Gardner

Michael Gardner

Guide


A lifelong climber, Michael spent his childhood in the Teton Range of Wyoming, the San Juan Mountains of southern Colorado, and the Himalayas. He came to AMS in 2013 and currently guides Denali expeditions and instructs mountaineering courses for the school. He holds an impressive resume of big mountain and technical climbs, including the fourth ascent of the Fathers and Son’s Wall on Denali, the Goat’s Beard Grade 5 ice climb in Washington State, and Mera Peak in Nepal, where at 10 years old he accomplished a complete snowboard descent. Along with his work for AMS, Michael guided in Grand Teton National Park and has taught at the Khumbu Climbing Center in Nepal as a lead mountaineering instructor. A professional mountain skier and avid skateboarder, Michael travels extensively as a professional athlete with Arc’teryx.

  • BA in Art of Education, Goddard College
  • Wilderness First Responder
  • Leave No Trace Trainer
  • Certified Avalanche Professional Level 2
  • Languages: English (Native speaker)

Amanda Erickson

Amanda Erickson

Admissions Manager


When she’s not helping coordinate your expedition/course/workshop/custom program here at the AMS office, Amanda can be found climbing, fishing, traversing, and paddling her way through Alaska’s wilderness. Amanda has worked with AMS since 2014 and has a BA in Child and Family Studies. She was raised in the deep south of Charleston, SC, where she was first introduced to rock climbing and outdoor pursuits in the Smoky Mountains. Despite Talkeetna being her home base since 2010, Amanda is on a continual quest to find North America’s warmest and loneliest long-boarding wave. Amanda climbed to 14,200 ft on Denali’s West Buttress and completed a glacier travel and crevasse rescue workshop with AMS, so she has firsthand experience to help answer your climbing questions.

  • Wilderness First Responder, Leave No Trace Trainer, Avalanche I certified

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Dustin English

Dustin English

Guide


Dustin has worked with AMS since 2010 as a mountaineering instructor, Denali guide, and with film projects. He has tirelessly explored Alaska’s wilderness since 1999, including rafting and fishing in Katmai, climbing in the Alaska Range, and skiing across the Chugach Range. His fellow climbers find him to be a guide who brings out the best in others, builds a strong team, and gets his team to their destination seamlessly. Dustin and his family founded and operate Voormi clothing company in Colorado, and we are happy to see more of their exceptional pieces of gear in the Alaska Range each year. Dustin worked both as a ski patroller and in rock gyms in Colorado and Alaska. He lives in Colorado with his wife.

  • BA in Outdoor Studies, Alaska Pacific University
  • Wilderness EMT
  • AIARE Avalanche II, Leave No Trace Master Educator
  • Competitive Marksman

Our Team

Our Team

All of the exceptional work that Alaska Mountaineering School accomplishes is due to our hardworking and caring instructors, guides, and office staff. Our focus and dedication toward Denali and the surrounding wilderness resonates in everything we do. The success of any expedition into the Alaska Range relies heavily upon attention to detail, and the strength and quality of our team comes from decades of dedication and experience.

“Our guides were clearly among the most respected on the mountain.” —Nicholas Dumesnil


Expert Guides

AMS guides are chosen on the basis of their experience level as climbers and educators. They are true professionals, with extensive training in backcountry emergency medicine, avalanche safety and rescue, and land stewardship. All guides undergo formal training with AMS. Equally important, they understand the leadership and group dynamics, which make expeditions successful, rewarding, and fun. Guides model expert decision-making and judgment calls in order to reach a group and individual’s goals and needs. AMS guides demonstrate superior knowledge and competency in all mountain skill areas, but above all they are amiable, approachable, and understand the importance of effective leadership.

“They’re embarrassingly rich in the one thing that makes a true mountain guide: boots-on-the-ground wilderness experience.” —Anchorage Press, 2015


Emeritus Guides

AMS recognizes the contributions of outstanding guides it has had over the years. While these people are semi-retired from AMS’ Alaska Range programs, they occasionally return to AMS to teach and guide for special occasions. They have been integral to AMS, and our team would not be complete without them.


Support Team

Because you need more than outstanding guides…