Women's 6-day Mountaineering Course with Alaska Mountaineering School

6-day All Women Mountaineering Course

Beginner
Denali National Park
6 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$3,750




Apply

Mountaineering has traditionally been a predominantly male space. Still, the more you dig, the more you find stories of women such as Dora Keen, Betty Ivano Menard, Ada Blackjack, Barbara Washburn, Arlene Blum, Sophia Danenberg, Lhakpa Sherpa, and so many more who have been accomplishing impressive feats throughout the decades. Yet, women still can face small but accumulating nudges that make them less confident in their ability to thrive in challenging mountain environments. At AMS, we believe people of all genders have a place in the mountains to soak up the physical, mental, interpersonal, and spiritual health boost from spending time in these wild and awe-inspiring places. The countless benefits of mountaineering belong to everyone, and we are here to help make that happen. We know that all-women courses and expeditions can offer a uniquely empowering and equalizing space that allows us to challenge ourselves in ways that transform us for the better. In this group, we hope there is less impulse to assume we can’t do something and more ease and opportunity to learn what seems intimidating.

The AMS 6-Day Mountaineering Course is designed for anyone who wishes to travel and climb on a multi-day expedition in a glaciated mountain range. This course models a Denali expedition by utilizing fixed-wing aircraft to land on a glacier. This is not a base camping course but one that moves to at least one new location. 5 full days in the field will be busy if we are to build a foundation of essential mountaineering skills.

Throughout the course, participants learn by doing, gaining confidence to camp, travel on a glacier, and climb mountains in a remote environment.

“I chose AMS because of their expertise, local knowledge and not least, the number of women they have among their guides and successful clients.”  —Lisa Kostova

Beginner
Denali National Park
6 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$3,750




Apply
Schedule

Contact us about custom options.

What's Included

  • All female instructors
  • 1:3 instructor-student ratio as the gold standard
  • Crevasse self-rescue class in AMS before departing
  • Roundtrip glacier flight
  • All food during your course and team lunch at AMS HQ on day 1
  • All group camping and climbing equipment: ropes, tents, pickets, technical climbing gear, snow saws, wands
  • Sled for each student, pre-rigged for roped glacier travel for use during the climb
  • Snow kitchen equipment: kitchen tents, cooking stoves, utensils, and fuel
  • Mountain communications: emergency use satellite phone, FRS on-mountain radios, Delorme In-Reach
  • Maps, GPS
  • Medical protocols, first aid, medication and repair kits
  • Fully equipped staging area at AMS HQ and AMS Mountain Gear Shop in Talkeetna
  • 24/7 support from staff at AMS in Talkeetna during your climb
  • Regular social media updates during your climb
  • Pre-course assistance with travel planning and training advice
  • Post-course lodging and shuttle logistics
  • Luggage storage and free parking during your course
  • Camping at AMS HQ campground (tents are not provided)
  • Welcome-back table with fresh foods and drinks after your course
  • Knowledgeable staff to assist with lodging and shuttle logistics

Beginner
Denali National Park
6 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$3,750




Apply

This is a sample 6-day All Women Mountaineering Course itinerary. Actual day-to-day activities of any course vary depending on course location, weather, and snow conditions.

Day 1
8:00 am: Meet at AMS for course orientation and overview of
the day. Check equipment and issue gear. Pack lunches.
Calculate weights. This is a busy day, so please be on time.
12:00 pm: Lunch provided at AMS
1:00 pm: Dress for the field
1:30 pm: Fixed line ascension class
3:00 pm: Pack up, weigh everything for the flight
3:30 pm: Load van. Drive a short distance to the airport. Organize loads for flight.
4:00 pm: Fly onto the glacier. Travel a short distance and establish camp: probe and wand the perimeter, build walls, make sleeping platforms, set up a group kitchen, and establish the bathroom.
6:00 pm: All group dinner

Classes: Site selection, tent spacing, shovel and snow saw use, wall building, tent pitching, hygiene and sanitation, group kitchen basics, stove use and care, cooking basics, bomb-proofing the camp, staying warm at night. Evening discussion: Course goals and expectations, plus Denali National Park and Preserve history and regulations.

Day 2
7:00am: Group breakfast. Class: food ID and nutrition. 9:00 am – 12:00 pm: Basic climbing skills: More knots, rope identification and care, rope handling and coiling, snow protection and anchor systems, and belaying. 1:00 pm – 6:00 pm: Roping up for glacier travel, rope travel techniques, simple crevasse fall scenarios, transferring a load, snow climbing techniques, use of ice axe, self-arrest. Head out of camp for glacier travel. Evening discussion: Expedition behavior, intro to leadership.

Day 3
9:00am – 5:00pm: Meet with daypacks ready for a full day away from camp. Students organize themselves into rope teams. Group heads to crevasse for self-rescue practice: the site is secured, and anchors are built for lowering and raising systems. Students lead rope teams in glacier travel along a known 30-degree snow slope. Snow climbing and crampon practice is followed by ice axe self-arrest practice. The site turns into a ground school for running protection and fixed lines. Evening discussion: Avalanche Awareness.

Day 4
Break camp down, pack up, and travel to a new location. Students lead the rope team and campsite selection processes. Each tent has its own kitchen shelter. Evening discussion: Planning a peak ascent.

Day 5
All-day peak ascent with classes on route finding, running protection, belaying, snowpack stability. Evening discussion: Next steps for pursuing mountaineering.

Day 6
Early morning camp break down. Student-led rope teams head back to the airstrip. Fly back to Talkeetna. Clean up and de-issue gear, write evaluations, and finish logistics. Final farewell.

Beginner
Denali National Park
6 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$3,750




Apply

This is an introductory course suitable for people with no mountaineering experience. Prior experience backpacking, tent camping, and belaying will put students at an advantage but are not required. Participants should arrive in good physical condition with a positive attitude and a desire to learn. Participants should be willing to work hard, have an open mind and be positive team members.

Beginner
Denali National Park
6 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$3,750




Apply

“The success of your climbing trip is very dependent on who you choose to guide you. I chose AMS because of their expertise, local knowledge and not least, the number of women they have among their guides and successful clients. I summited Denali in large part because of the support of AMS.”
—Lisa Kostova, Denali West Buttress

“AMS is incredibly organized and efficient in a way only decades of experience can yield. They have carefully selected staff members and make their standards consistent and systematic. They’re a great resource and learning center.”
—Yelena, Advanced Mountaineering Course

“Thank you AMS for a very clear concise, practical and comprehensive introductory glacier travel and crevasse rescue class. The instructors were excellent, the location ideal, I feel like I have the foundation to take the next step to explore.”
—Jennifer Bando, Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue Course


AMS Ski Mountaineering Course

AMS Ski Mountaineering Course

Advanced Downhill Skiing Ability Required
7 days
2 instructors: 6 skiers
$4,300




Apply

The AMS Ski Mountaineering course offers advanced skiers an introduction to unsupported winter backcountry travel in a glaciated mountain environment. Roped glacier travel, moving and building camps, crevasse rescue, and a field-oriented avalanche curriculum is built around a skiing-focused course.

Students learn how to live comfortably and take care of themselves and others in winter conditions. You will be on a snow-covered glacier the entire time.

Expect to learn how to safely explore and enjoy the surrounding mountains using skis. From a solid foundation in camping and glacier travel, we embrace a multifaceted approach to backcountry skiing on a glacier.

Advanced Downhill Skiing Ability Required
7 days
2 instructors: 6 skiers
$4,300




Apply
Schedule

April 14 – 20, 2025

All Women’s Team:
May 1 – 7, 2025

Custom:
March – April
Contact us about custom options

What's Included

  • Professional instructors
  • Roundtrip glacier flight
  • All food during your course and team lunch at AMS headquarters on day 1
  • All group camping and climbing equipment: ropes, tents, pickets, technical climbing gear, snow saws, wands
  • Sled for each student, pre-rigged for roped glacier travel for use during the climb
  • Snow kitchen equipment: kitchen tents, cooking stoves, utensils, and fuel
  • Mountain communications: emergency use satellite phone, FRS on-mountain radios
  • Maps, GPS; medical protocols, first aid, medication and repair kits
  • Staging area at AMS HQ
  • 24/7 support from staff at AMS in Talkeetna during your climb
  • Regular social media updates during your climb
  • Luggage storage and free parking during your climb
  • Camping at AMS HQ campground
  • Welcome-back table with fresh foods and drinks after your course
  • Knowledgeable staff to assist with lodging and shuttle logistics.

Advanced Downhill Skiing Ability Required
7 days
2 instructors: 6 skiers
$4,300




Apply

AMS’s 7-day Ski Mountaineering course itinerary is designed to get the most out of an introduction to Alaska ski mountaineering.

Pre-course Briefing and Packing
AMS guides are hired for a full two days before the start date to brief, and check all group gear, and pack food.

Day 1
8:00 a.m.: Meet at AMS for course orientation and overview of the day. Check equipment and issue gear. Pack lunches. Calculate weights. This is a busy day, so please be on time.
12:00 p.m.: Lunch provided at AMS.
1:00 p.m.: Dress for glacier.
1:30 p.m.: Fixed-line ascension
3:30 p.m.: Weigh gear, load van, register at Talkeetna ranger station.
4:00 p.m.: Drive to airport. Organize loads for fixed-wing flight.
4:30 p.m.: Fly onto the glacier. Establish camp: probe and wand the perimeter, build walls, make sleeping platforms, set up group kitchen, establish the bathroom.
6:00 p.m. Make dinner.
PM Meeting: snowpack and weather observations, avalanche observations. Debrief of the day held nightly.

Day 2
7:00 a.m.: Group breakfast.
8:00 a.m. AM meeting: Current weather, weather forecast, red flags present, critical factors, avalanche problems. Morning meeting held daily.
9:00 a.m.–12:00 p.m.: Basic glacier-travel ground school: knots, rope identification and care, rope handing and coiling, snow protection and anchor systems, belaying, roping up for glacier travel, rope travel techniques, simple crevasse fall scenarios, transferring a load.
1:00 p.m.–6 p.m.: Practice uphill and downhill ski techniques at ski slope near camp. Practice transceiver searches. Ski tour with snow pack evaluation and stability tests.

Day 3
9:00 a.m.–12:00 p.m.: Organize rope teams and head to crevasse for rescue practice. Secure the site and build anchors for lowering and raising systems.
1:00 p.m.–6 p.m.: Ski tour. Students practice building study pits and performing stability tests. Plan to move camp.

Day 4
Break down camp. Roped glacier travel to new camp location. Build camp. Afternoon ski tour.

Day 5
All day ski tour.

Day 6
All day ski tour.

Day 7
Alpine start to packing up camp. Student-led rope teams head back to the airstrip. Fly back to Talkeetna. Clean up and de-issue, evaluations and logistics. Group dinner at a local restaurant.

Advanced Downhill Skiing Ability Required
7 days
2 instructors: 6 skiers
$4,300




Apply

This course requires excellent skiing ability in order to ski comfortably with a pack or in challenging conditions. You should be able to ski black diamond runs at a downhill ski resort. Previous backcountry skiing and winter camping experience are not required. Participants should be in good physical condition.

Advanced Downhill Skiing Ability Required.

Advanced Downhill Skiing Ability Required
7 days
2 instructors: 6 skiers
$4,300




Apply

“Perfect trip, professionally guided, good organization and sense of humor!”

— Elisabetta Pallavicini, Upper West Rib Expedition


Backpacking

Backpacking

Talkeetna Mountains: Bomber Traverse
4 days
6 hikers, 2 guides
$3,200

Talkeetna Mountains: Northern Alpine Traverse
8 days
6 hikers, 2 guides
$4,600

All Levels – Custom



Contact AMS for more details



Apply

Backpacking is an unforgettable way to experience Alaska’s vast and pristine tundra, whether you want to take photos, learn about plants and wildlife, or simply enjoy big skies and deep quiet. The Talkeetna Mountain Range is home to moose, caribou, Dall sheep, wolf, coyote, fox, wolverine, ermine, otter, porcupines, black and grizzly bear, ptarmigan, owl, ducks, loons, Canadian geese, swans and eagles. Backpackers will always keep a keen eye open to see these animals throughout the course. The AMS curriculum emphasizes essential wilderness skills to allow you to be safe and comfortable in a backcountry setting: tent setup, stove use, cooking, safe camping in bear country, basic knots, map and compass use, and first aid. Those with little to no backpacking or camping experience benefit from instruction on hiking techniques, camping skills, and map use. Natural history enthusiasts benefit from discussions on plant identification, animal sightings, and the human history of the region. Experienced backpackers will enjoy our flexible schedule, as well as options to add more mileage, challenging terrain, and peak ascents to the itinerary. There is something in this course for anyone who enjoys being outdoors and immersed in the untamed beauty of the true Alaskan wilderness.

All of our backpacking courses are customized to accommodate and build upon whatever backpacking and camping experience you already have. AMS instructors introduce you to the unique tundra ecosystem underfoot, teaching essential wilderness skills to achieve safety and comfort in the backcountry.

“I had no previous camping experience and now feel as though I’d be ready for a trip without a guide. I liked the true sense of adventure, of working for the experience, of testing myself.” — Peter Freer


Features

  • Excellent scenic opportunities
  • Learning basic backpacking and camping skills
  • Traveling and camping safely in bear country
  • Leave No Trace camping and traveling techniques
  • Wildlife viewing
  • Understanding the ecosystem, identifying flora and fauna
  • Optional peak ascent
  • Elevations to 3,000 to 5,000 feet (900-1,500m)
  • 1 : 5 instructor/student ratio
  • River crossing techniques
  • Traveling and camping in bear country
  • Expedition skills: leadership, expedition behavior, trip planning

Talkeetna Mountains: Bomber Traverse
4 days
6 hikers, 2 guides
$3,200

Talkeetna Mountains: Northern Alpine Traverse
8 days
6 hikers, 2 guides
$4,600

All Levels – Custom



Contact AMS for more details



Apply
Schedule

Talkeetna Mountains – Northern Alpine Traverse
Maximum: 6 hikers, 2 guides
$4,600, 8 days
July 13-20, 2025

Talkeetna Mountains – Bomber Traverse
Maximum: 6 hikers, 2 guides
$3,200, 4 days
July 5-8, 2025

Custom
4-21 Days, July-August
Talkeetna Mountains
Chugach Mountains
Gates of the Arctic NP
Max 8 students: 2 instructors
Contact us about custom options


What's Included

  • Professional Mountain Guide(s) and instruction
  • Round-trip van transportation to trailhead
  • All meals and snack foods in the mountains
  • All group camping and hiking equipment: tents, anchors, portable bear-resistant food containment, bear spray, and air horns
  • Kitchen equipment: community kitchen tent, cooking stoves, utensils, and fuel
  • Mountain communications: emergency-use satellite phone, FRS on-mountain radios, Delorme inReach
  • Maps, GPS
  • Medical protocols, first aid, medication, and repair kits
  • Fully equipped staging area at AMS HQ and AMS Mountain Gear Shop in Talkeetna
  • 24/7 support from staff at AMS in Talkeetna during your course
  • Social media updates during your course
  • Luggage storage during your course
  • Welcome back table with fresh foods and drinks after your course
  • Knowledgeable staff to assist with lodging and shuttle logistics, both before and after your course

Talkeetna Mountains: Bomber Traverse
4 days
6 hikers, 2 guides
$3,200

Talkeetna Mountains: Northern Alpine Traverse
8 days
6 hikers, 2 guides
$4,600

All Levels – Custom



Contact AMS for more details



Apply
Sample Itinerary: Sheep Back Lake

Day 1
Gear checks in town, lunch, fly to Sheep Back Lake. Establish a campsite near the lake and go for a short hike and get familiarized with the area. Classes on wild animal and bear awareness, bear spray use, campsite selection, tent setup, sleeping warm and dry, and camp hygiene.

Day 2
Wake up, cook breakfast and pack up camp with for a day of hiking for 5 miles on trail-less terrain. Camp on tundra among granite spires. Classes on natural history, glaciology, bird and plant identification.

Day 3
Wake up, cook breakfast and pack up camp with for a day of hiking for 5 miles on trail-less terrain along a glacier. Terrain is strenuous: loose rocky and trundra. Camp near alpine lake on tundra. Classes on navigation, map and GPS use, glacier hazard recognition, movement over multiple types of terrain,
stream and river crossing.

Day 4
Wake up, cook breakfast and pack up camp for a 4 mile hike to return to Backside Lake for a mid afternoon pick up. Hiking on trail – less tundra. Classes on efficient packing and movement technique, planning a backpacking expedition, gear care and maintenance.

Talkeetna Mountains: Bomber Traverse
4 days
6 hikers, 2 guides
$3,200

Talkeetna Mountains: Northern Alpine Traverse
8 days
6 hikers, 2 guides
$4,600

All Levels – Custom



Contact AMS for more details



Apply

The Wilderness Hike and Trek are introductory wilderness courses with the following prerequisites for each participant:

  • arrive in good physical condition
  • be prepared to carry a backpack weighing 30 to 40 pounds
  • possess a positive attitude and a desire to learn
  • be willing to work hard, have an open mind,
  • be a team member


Alpine Climbing Course

Alpine Climbing Course

Advanced
Denali National Park
8 Days
2 Students: 1 Instructor
$5,900




Apply

The Alpine Climbing Course provides experienced climbers the opportunity to sharpen existing  skills and learn new ones in a challenging and remote glaciated environment. The focus is on preparing students to climb and commit to more challenging, technical routes in the Alaska Range. The course breaks camp and moves to new locations to explore and climb in a variety of terrain. You will come away with an experience on how to  pursue alpine rock climbing in a remote wilderness environment.


features

  • 1:2 instructor student ratio is the gold standard. Crevasse self-rescue class in AMS before departing.
  • A carefully planned menu and complete kitchen for each cook group.
  • Mountain Hardwear Trango tents, Black Diamond kitchen shelters, and Hilleberg classroom.

Advanced
Denali National Park
8 Days
2 Students: 1 Instructor
$5,900




Apply
Schedule

June 20 – 27, 2025

What's Included

  • Professional instructors
  • Round Trip Glacier Flight
  • All food during your course and team lunch at AMS HQ on day 1
  • All group camping and climbing equipment: ropes, tents, pickets, technical climbing gear, snow saws, wands
  • Sled for each student, pre-rigged for roped glacier travel
  • Snow Kitchen Equipment: community kitchen tent, cooking stoves, utensils, and fuel
  • Mountain communications: emergency use satellite phone, FRS on-mountain radios, Delorme In-Reach
  • Maps, GPS
  • Medical Protocols, first aid, medication and repair kits
  • Fully equipped staging area at AMS HQ and AMS Mountain Gear shop in Talkeetna.
  • 24/7 support staff at AMS in Talkeetna during your course
  • Regular social media updates during your climb
  • Pre-course assistance with travel planning and training advice
  • Post-course lodging and shuttle logistics
  • Luggage Storage and free parking during your expedition
  • Post-climb welcome back table with fresh fruit and drinks
  • Knowledgeable staff to assist with lodging and shuttle logistics

Advanced
Denali National Park
8 Days
2 Students: 1 Instructor
$5,900




Apply

AMS likes organization and thoroughness. That requires time. Your instructors dedicate two days before the start date to checking all the gear and packing the food. Every stove is fired up, every radio is checked, and all the ropes are inspected. We adhere to the motto, “Prior planning prevents poor performance.”


Day 1
8:00 am: Meet at AMS for course orientation and overview of the day. Check equipment and issue gear. Pack lunches. Calculate weights. This is a busy day, so please be on time.
12:00 pm: Lunch provided at AMS. Lasagna and salad.
1:00 pm: Practice fixed line ascension at AMS.
4:00 pm: Load van. 3-minute drive to airport. Organize loads for fixed-wing flights.
4:30 pm: Fly onto the glacier. Reorganize loads for glacier travel, travel a short distance and establish camp: probe and wand the perimeter, build walls, make sleeping platforms, set up group kitchen, establish the bathroom.
6:00 pm: Make group dinner.

Classes: Site selection, tent spacing, shovel and snow saw use, wall building, tent pitching, hygiene and sanitation, group kitchen basics, stove use and care, cooking basics, bomb proofing the camp, staying warm at night. Evening discussion: Goals and Expectations, Expedition Behavior, Leadership.

Day 2
Climbing skills review. Self-arrest. Crevasse rescue. Roped glacier travel. Scouting tour.

Day 3
Move Day. Camp is broken down and moved to a rock climbing location. Practice movement skills on rock, protection placement, lead climbing techniques, top ropinjg, rappelling. Evening discussion: Grading and Difficulty Ratings, Climbing Style and Ethics.

Day 4
Climbing Day. Classes on belaying off anchor plaquette style, belay transitions, single and double rope lead climbing techniques.

Day 5
Rescue Day. Practice freeing the brake hand, escaping the belay, reaching a fallen climber, passing a knot, short roping, improvised litters. Evening discussion: Planning for climbing day. Evening discussion: Fall Factors and Material Strength.

Day 6
Climbing Day

Day 7
Climbing Day

Day 8
Pack up camp. Student-led rope teams head back to the airstrip. Fly back to Talkeetna. Clean up and de-issue gear, write evaluations, and finish logistics. Group dinner at a local restaurant.

Advanced
Denali National Park
8 Days
2 Students: 1 Instructor
$5,900




Apply

Applicants should have at least two (2) years prior roped climbing experience, be comfortable in exposed locations, and be familiar with belaying, building anchors, and rappelling.

Advanced
Denali National Park
8 Days
2 Students: 1 Instructor
$5,900




Apply

If you want to climb in Alaska, use AMS. Their knowledge and experience in this area is unparalleled.—Brent Erickson

I learned heaps and tons and bunches. When can I go again? — Meg McKinney Larsen


12-day mountaineering course

12-day Mountaineering Course

Beginner
Denali National Park
12 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$4,950




Apply

Twelve days is the perfect amount of time to cover a full curriculum, which can be broken down into skill categories: climbing, camping, traveling, avalanche, first aid/rescue, expedition style, and environmental stewardship. AMS’s 12-Day Mountaineering course is an introduction to mountaineering and expedition climbing, and as our flagship course sets the industry standard for remote wilderness climbing expeditions. You and your team members will fly directly into the mountains from Talkeetna and land on a glacier. This maximizes time for technical skill development. Throughout the course, participants learn by doing; course graduates have pursued climbing in their local areas or in other parts of the world. You will learn how to live comfortably in snow-covered, glaciated terrain and have an understanding of what it takes to pursue longer climbs in the Alaska Range (such as Denali). AMS takes the responsibility of introducing people to the world of mountain climbing very seriously, and this course is a reflection of our mission.

FEATURES

  • 1:3 instructor/student ratio, up to 9 students
  • Mountaineering skills progression: knots, protection, anchors, belays, self-arrest, snow climbing techniques, descent
  • Winter camping skills in glacier environment
  • Roped glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques
  • Snowshoe travel with ski poles
  • Skills necessary for Denali expedition, including moving camp
  • Avalanche awareness, transceiver search, snowpack evaluationrescue skills, hazard and risk anyalsis, observations and recording
  • Leadership and Expedition Behavior skills: fundamental tools for a successful expedition
  • Preparing and eating tasty and nutritious food in the mountains
  • Peak ascents: putting all skills to use and experience summiting an Alaskan mountains

Beginner
Denali National Park
12 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$4,950




Apply
Schedule

April 19 – April 30, 2025
May 3 – 14, 2025
June 7 – 18, 2025
July 1 – 12, 2025

What's Included

  • Professional instructors, roundtrip glacier flight
  • All food during your course and team lunch at AMS HQ on day 1
  • All group camping and climbing equipment: ropes, tents, pickets, technical climbing gear, snow saws, wands
  • Sled for each student, pre-rigged for roped glacier travel for use during the climb
  • Snow kitchen equipment: kitchen tents, cooking stoves, utensils, and fuel
  • Mountain communications: emergency use satellite phone, FRS on-mountain radios, Delorme In-Reach
  • Maps, GPS
  • Medical protocols, first aid, medication and repair kits
  • Fully equipped staging area at AMS HQ and AMS Mountain Gear Shop in Talkeetna
  • 24/7 support from staff at AMS in Talkeetna during your climb
  • Regular social media updates during your climb
  • Pre-course assistance with travel planning and training advice
  • Post-course lodging and shuttle logistics
  • Luggage storage and free parking during your course
  • Camping at AMS HQ campground (tents are not provided)
  • Welcome-back table with fresh foods and drinks after your course
  • Knowledgeable staff to assist with lodging and shuttle logistics

Beginner
Denali National Park
12 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$4,950




Apply

This is a sample 12-day course itinerary. Activities vary depending on course location, weather, and snow conditions.

Day 1
Meet with your instructors 8am at AMS in Talkeetna, muffins/tea/coffee provided, course orientation, individual gear check, lunch at AMS, register with NPS, climb fixed lines, final pack up and dress for the mountains, fly, build camp. Classes in Talkeetna: harnesses, basic knots, fixed line ascension, what to wear and how to pack for the plane; classes on glacier: scene safety, hygiene and sanitation, campsite selection, probing, perimeter camping, shovel use and care, tent platforms and walls, group outdoor kitchen, food id, stove use, basic cooking, evening class on “bomb proofing” camp, sleeping warm.

Day 2
Group breakfast, set up kitchen megamids, climbing ground school, basic crevasse fall scenarios, glacier tour/scout tomorrow’s crevasse. Classes: Rope id and care, climbing protection, anchors, belaying, roping up for glacier travel, self-arrest with ski poles, crevasse fall scenarios, transferring the load to an anchor, snow shoeing, glacier travel techniques; evening discussion: altitude-related injuries, what to bring in a day pack, weather observations.

Day 3
Rope up and head to crevasse for the day, probe out and establish crevasse rescue training area, build anchors, lower and raise each other out of crevasse, ascend climbing rope out of crevasse, student-led rope teams. Classes: Lowering, tying off, transferring the load, raising systems, what to do with pack and sled; evening discussion on avalanche mechanics & classification, weather observations.

Day 4
Break down camp, pack sleds, travel to new location and build camp, prepare for peak ascent. Classes: Packing packs and sleds, caching, roping up with sleds, navigation & route finding, transceiver searches; evening discussion on cold injuries, weather observations.

Day 5
Summit day. Classes: Snow climbing techniques, running protection/belays, crampon use, snow stability tests, route finding; evening discussion on expedition behavior and leadership.

Day 6
Ice climbing, rappelling. Classes: Choosing a climb, setting up top ropes, moderate and steep ice climbing techniques, placing screws and threads, mock leads, rappelling ground school; evening discussion mid-course check-in, goals and expectations.

Day 7
Break down camp and move to snow shelter camp, student led rope teams, simulated crevasse fall. Classes: Snow shelters; evening discussion on difficulty ratings, climbing style, climbing history.

Day 8
Summit day, more challenging than first peak ascent. Classes: Geology, weather; evening discussion on snow shelter maintenance, emergency procedures.

Day 9
Move camp to rock climbing area. Classes: Rock climbing techniques-face and crack, placing rock protection, mock leads; evening discussion on altitude related illnesses.

Day 10
Summit day; route objective based on success of previous peak ascents, more student involvement in decision making and snow pack evaluation.

Day 11
Pack up and move back to landing zone, establish camp, student leaders of the day, write evaluations. Classes: Traveling in a white out, map and compass; evening discussion on wilderness ethics, land management issues.

Day 12
Prepare airstrip, fly out, return to AMS, return rental equipment, clean and organize group gear, exchange evaluations, group dinner at a local restaurant.

Beginner
Denali National Park
12 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$4,950




Apply

This is an introductory course suitable for people with no mountaineering experience. Prior experience backpacking, tent camping, and belaying will put students at an advantage, but are not required. Participants should arrive in good physical condition with a positive attitude and a desire to learn. They should be willing to work hard, have an open mind and be a team member.

Beginner
Denali National Park
12 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$4,950




Apply

I was very impressed with the professionalism and attention to detail of the entire organization, from start to finish. 
— Gary Davis

You guys were all great. Your company really has a family feel to it… you really put the competition to shame. My last climb was with another (highly regarded) company, and trust me, there is no comparison. Hands down you guys were superior. Keep doing what you are doing. When I climb Denali in a year, you guys will get my call… I have you on speed dial.
— Tony Robles

All of the AMS guides and staff were amazing! Our guides were fun, positive, patient, and had a passion for teaching and mountaineering. The staff was easy to reach by phone and always quick to email, and they were fun and extremely friendly. In summary, I highly recommend a course through AMS! Specifically, I recommend the 12-day course for the most opportunity to see the varying conditions of the glacier.
—Joe Romeo


6-day Mountaineering Course

6-day Mountaineering Course

Beginner
Denali National Park
6 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$3,750




Apply

The 6-day Mountaineering course is an introduction to mountaineering and expedition climbing. You and your team members will fly directly into the mountains from Talkeetna and land on a glacier. This maximizes time for technical skill development, such as: establishing safe camps, travelling on a rope team, practicing crevasse rescue, and learning how to climb snow- and ice-covered peaks. You will learn how to live comfortably on snow-covered, glaciated terrain and gain an understanding of what it takes to pursue longer climbs in the Alaska Range. This course requires that you arrive in good physical condition, and be excited to learn how to live in a remote, mountainous environment. Six days is a short amount of time to cover a large number of topics, move camp, and also climb a peak, so be prepared to absorb a lot of information.

FEATURES

  • 1:3 instructor/student ratio, up to 9 students
  • Mountaineering skills progression: knots, protection, anchors, belays, self-arrest, snow climbing techniques, descent
  • Winter camping skills in a glacier environment
  • Roped glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques
  • Snowshoe travel with ski poles, including safe glacier travel, route-finding, and navigation skills
  • Recognize and avoid avalanche terrain
  • Leadership and Expedition Behavior skills: fundamental tools for a successful expedition
  • Preparing and eating tasty and nutritious food in the mountains

“I felt 100% comfortable with my guides, even when dangling 15 feet below the lip of a crevasse. My only complaint: I should have taken the 12-Day course.” — Stuart Pearce

Beginner
Denali National Park
6 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$3,750




Apply
Schedule

April 27 – May 2, 2025

May 6 – 11, 2025

June 14 – 19, 2025 (All Women’s Team)

June 21 – 26, 2025

July 5 – 10, 2025

What's Included

  • Professional instructors, roundtrip glacier flight
  • All food during your course and team lunch at AMS HQ on day 1
  • All group camping and climbing equipment: ropes, tents, pickets, technical climbing gear, snow saws, wands
  • Sled for each student, pre-rigged for roped glacier travel for use during the climb
  • Snow kitchen equipment: kitchen tents, cooking stoves, utensils, and fuel
  • Mountain communications: emergency use satellite phone, FRS on-mountain radios, Delorme In-Reach
  • Maps, GPS
  • Medical protocols, first aid, medication and repair kits
  • Fully equipped staging area at AMS HQ and AMS Mountain Gear Shop in Talkeetna
  • 24/7 support from staff at AMS in Talkeetna during your climb
  • Regular social media updates during your climb
  • Pre-course assistance with travel planning and training advice
  • Post-course lodging and shuttle logistics
  • Luggage storage and free parking during your course
  • Camping at AMS HQ campground (tents are not provided)
  • Welcome-back table with fresh foods and drinks after your course
  • Knowledgeable staff to assist with lodging and shuttle logistics

Beginner
Denali National Park
6 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$3,750




Apply

This is a sample 6-day mountaineering course itinerary. Actual day-to-day activities of any course vary depending on course location, weather, and snow conditions.

Day 1

Meet 8am at AMS in Talkeetna with your instructors, muffins/tea/coffee provided, course orientation, individual gear check, lunch at AMS, register with NPS, climb fixed lines, final pack up and dress for the mountains, fly, build camp. Classes in Talkeetna: harnesses, basic knots, fixed line ascension, what to wear and how to pack for the plane; classes on glacier: scene safety, hygiene and sanitation, campsite selection, probing, perimeter camping, shovel use and care, tent platforms and walls, group outdoor kitchen, food id, stove use, basic cooking, evening class on “bomb proofing” camp, sleeping warm.

Day 2
Group breakfast, set up kitchen megamids, climbing ground school, basic crevasse fall scenarios, glacier tour/scout tomorrow’s crevasse. Classes: Rope id and care, climbing protection, anchors, belaying, roping up for glacier travel, self-arrest with ski poles, crevasse fall scenarios, transferring the load to an anchor, snow shoeing, glacier travel techniques; evening discussion: altitude-related injuries, what to bring in a day pack, weather observations.

Day 3
Rope up and head to crevasse for the day, probe out and establish crevasse rescue training area, build anchors, lower and raise each other out of crevasse, ascend climbing rope out of crevasse, student-led rope teams. Classes: Lowering, tying off, transferring the load, raising systems, what to do with pack and sled; evening discussion: avalanche mechanics & classification, weather observations.

Day 4
Break down camp, pack sleds, travel to new location and build camp, prepare for peak ascent. Classes: Packing packs and sleds, caching, roping up with sleds, navigation & route finding, transceiver searches; evening discussion: cold injuries, weather observations.

Day 5
Weather observations, stability tests, summit attempt. Classes: Snow climbing techniques, running protection/belays, crampon use, snow stability tests, route finding; evening discussion on expedition behavior and leadership.

Day 6
Alpine start, pack up and return to airstrip, student led rope teams, prepare runway, fly back to Talkeetna, de-issue equipment. Classes: Packing runway, where to go from here.

Beginner
Denali National Park
6 days
9 students : 3 instructors
$3,750




Apply

This is an introductory course suitable for people with no mountaineering experience. Prior experience backpacking, tent camping, and belaying will put students at an advantage, but are not required. Participants should arrive in good physical condition with a positive attitude and a desire to learn. They should be willing to work hard, have an open mind and be a team member.


Glacier Trek

Glacier Trek

Beginner/Intermediate
Glacier Trek via Ski Plane into Denali National Park
2–6 people
1-3 days
Call for pricing




Apply

Big mountains. Snow-covered glaciers. Wilderness. Blue ice crevasses.
Spending time in the heart of the huge glaciated mountains within Denali National Park and Preserve is an unforgettable experience. Glacier treks are a remarkable way for adventure travelers, families, or artists to live on the glacier and experience authentic mountain life in Alaska’s vast wilderness. We begin in Talkeetna with a stunning glacier flight, then land on a snow-covered glacier in the heart of Denali National Park. We unpack the plane and set up our new tent-home on the snow. AMS guides will teach you travel and safety protocols and basic mountaineering skills. Then, harnessed and roped together with your guide, you will make short forays on snowshoes or skis to experience some of the most spectacular vistas in the world. Some of our favorite Alaska Range areas for treks include: Ruth Glacier, Little Switzerland, Kahiltna Glacier, and Eldridge Glacier.

Beginner/Intermediate
Glacier Trek via Ski Plane into Denali National Park
2–6 people
1-3 days
Call for pricing




Apply
Schedule

Contact us about custom options for your Glacier Trek course.


What's Included

  • Professional mountain guide(s)
  • Personal warm outer-layer clothing: parka and insulated overpants
  • Personal glacier travel gear: insulated mountaineering boots, harness, crampons, snowshoes, ice axe, ropes and carabiners
  • Personal winter sleeping equipment: warm sleeping bags, insulated sleeping pads, tents
  • Round-trip glacier flight
  • All meals and snack foods during your trek
  • All group camping and climbing equipment: ropes, tents, pickets, technical climbing gear, snow saws, wands
  • Snow kitchen equipment: community kitchen tent, cooking stoves, utensils, and fuel
  • Mountain communications: Emergency-use satellite phone, FRS on-mountain radios, Delorme in-Reach
  • Maps, GPS
  • Medical protocols, first aid, medication, and repair kits
  • Fully equipped staging area at AMS HQ and AMS Mountain Shop in Talkeetna
  • 24/7 support from staff at AMS in Talkeetna during your climb
  • Pre-trek assistance with travel planning and training advice
  • Luggage storage during your trek
  • Welcome back table with fresh foods and drinks after your trek
  • Staff assistance with lodging and shuttle logistics

Beginner/Intermediate
Glacier Trek via Ski Plane into Denali National Park
2–6 people
1-3 days
Call for pricing




Apply

This is a sample Denali National Park Glacier Trek itinerary. Actual day-to-day activities of any trek vary depending on trek location, weather, and snow conditions.


1-Day Trek

8:00 a.m.: Meet at AMS in Talkeetna with your instructors, muffins/tea/coffee provided, trek orientation, individual gear check, pack snacks from AMS food room, final pack-up and dress for the mountains and glacier flight.

9:30 a.m.: Drive to local air taxi for glacier flight.

10:30 a.m.: Arrive on the glacier, guides provide: glaciology class, equipment orientation and safety review, rope up for glacier travel and snowshoe or ski on the glacier to a vista point and lunch. Explore the terrain and choose from activities such as: building snow shelters, crevasse exploration, building snow anchors, sledding, snowball fights, camping and cooking class, and more.

6:00 p.m.: Ski plane meets us on the glacier for pickup.

6:45 p.m.: Return to Talkeetna and AMS to return equipment, say farewell.


2-Day Trek

Day 1

Meet 8:00 a.m. at AMS with your instructors. Muffins/tea/coffee provided. Trek orientation, individual gear check, and pack snacks from AMS food room. Final pack-up and dress for the mountains and glacier flight.

9:30am: Drive to local NPS ranger station to register for our overnight and air taxi for glacier flight.

10:45 a.m.: Arrive on the glacier. Glaciology class, equipment orientation and safety review, tent camp and kitchen set-up on the snow. After lunch, we rope up for glacier travel and snowshoe or ski on the glacier to a vista point and have hot drinks and snacks. Explore the terrain and return to camp, where guides have prepared a tasty dinner. Classes: sleeping warm, camping in the snow, cold-weather living, hygiene, the environment and natural history. Enjoy the evening around the snow table with unforgettable alpenglow and the sounds of nature.

Day 2

Morning wake-up and hot breakfast. Full day of activity: travel further into the mountains adding more miles on the glacier, downhill skiing, building snow shelters, crevasse exploration, building snow anchors, sledding, snowball fights, camping and cooking class, crevasse rescue classes, rappelling, ice climbing, moderate peak ascent.

4:30 p.m.: Return to camp and pack up our camp and gear to meet our return flight back to Talkeetna.

5:30 p.m.: Ski plane meets us on the glacier for pickup.

6:15 p.m.: Return to Talkeetna and AMS to return equipment, say farewell.


3-Day Trek

Day 1

8:00 a.m.: Meet at AMS in Talkeetna with your instructors. Muffins/tea/coffee provided. Trek orientation, individual gear check, and pack snacks from AMS food room. Final pack-up and dress for the mountains and glacier flight.

9:30 a.m.: Drive to local NPS ranger station to register for our overnight and air taxi for glacier flight.

10:45 a.m.: Arrive on the glacier. Glaciology class, equipment orientation and safety review, set up our tent camp and kitchen on the snow. After lunch, we rope up for glacier travel and snowshoe or ski on the glacier to a vista point and have hot drinks and snacks. Explore the terrain and return to camp, guides prepare a tasty dinner. Classes: sleeping warm, camping in the snow, cold-weather living, hygiene, the environment and natural history. Enjoy the evening around the snow table with unforgettable alpenglow and the sounds of nature.

Day 2

Morning wake-up and hot breakfast. Full day of activity: moving camp, travel further into the mountains adding more miles on the glacier, picnic lunch, downhill skiing, building snow shelters, crevasse exploration, building snow anchors, sledding, snowball fights, camping and cooking class, crevasse rescue classes, rappelling, ice climbing, moderate peak ascent and more. Early evening travel back to camp, guides prepare a tasty dinner. Classes: Denali National Park and Preserve, climbing history, snow science. Enjoy another beautiful evening in nature around the snow table.

Day 3

Morning wake-up and hot breakfast. Full day of activity: moving camp, travel further into the mountains adding more miles on the glacier, downhill skiing, building snow shelters, crevasse exploration, building snow anchors, sledding, snowball fights, camping and cooking class, crevasse rescue classes, rappelling, ice climbing, moderate peak ascent.

4:30 p.m.: Return to camp and pack up camp and gear to meet our return flight back to Talkeetna.

5:30 p.m.: Ski plane meets us on the glacier for pickup.

6:15 p.m.: Return to Talkeetna and AMS to return equipment, say farewell.

Beginner/Intermediate
Glacier Trek via Ski Plane into Denali National Park
2–6 people
1-3 days
Call for pricing




Apply

No prior camping or climbing experience is necessary.

The difficulty of Glacier treks will be customized according to your individual and the group’s abilities and goals. All participants are expected to be healthy, with good physical fitness and comfort in remote wilderness areas.

Please note: This is wilderness camping, so there is no running water or public toilet. All specialty equipment is provided.

Beginner/Intermediate
Glacier Trek via Ski Plane into Denali National Park
2–6 people
1-3 days
Call for pricing




Apply

My life goal is not to climb the Seven Summits, but rather to set foot within all 397 units of America’s National Park System. One of them Denali National Preserve, is particularly remote and difficult to access, but AMS got me there! A spectacular landing on the seldom visited Dall Glacier and two magnificent nights spent on the ice, encircled by grandeur. Thank you AMS!
— Chris Calvert, 3-Day Glacier Trek

Glacier trekking at Ruth Glacier was amazing. It’s tied as number one with scuba diving with sharks at Sharks Hole, Tahiti in my most amazing experiences list. The views were magnificent, the weather was crystal clear and warm, only the sound of melting snow. I encourage everyone to experience such natural beauty.
—Mary Erginsoy, 2-day Trek

I can’t believe how lucky I was to find Colby and AMS while sitting at my desk in Chicago. We’ve been on three backcountry ski trips with Colby and each one is better than the previous one. We’ll be back!
—Tom Prusinski, 3-Day Trek(s) 

AMS customized a trip for us to enjoy the AK Range. The office staff took specific care to answer our endless questions and provided us with the perfect guide: Leighan. I highly recommend AMS.
—Katie Rice, 3-Day Trek


Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue

Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue

Workshop
Beginner/Intermediate
Talkeetna, AMS HQ
2 days
8 students : 2 instructors
$650

 

April 5 -6, 2025




Apply

Home base is the AMS headquarters in the town of Talkeetna, 3 hours North of Anchorage, Alaska. Our headquarters are efficiently set up for teaching with a climbing wall, fixed line ascension simulation, and much more. The workshop takes place outside, providing instruction on climbing techniques and safety systems necessary to travel safely on a glacier. This is an introductory workshop, covering a large amount of material. Come prepared for long days and loads of good information.


Features

  • Mountaineering ground school
  • Raising systems and fixed-line ascension
  • Crevasse fall scenarios
  • Self Arrest
  • Roped glacier travel systems (on dry land)
  • Belays

Workshop
Beginner/Intermediate
Talkeetna, AMS HQ
2 days
8 students : 2 instructors
$650




Apply
Schedule

April 5-6, 2025

Custom: March – August
Contact us about custom options

What's Included

  • Instruction: 1 instructor for every 4 students
  • Individual glacier travel safety rig: color-coded webbing and cordage
  • Group Equipment: ropes, pickets/ice screws, webbing, sleds, wands
  • Emergency cell, First aid, repair kit, and AMS headquarters support
  • E-Book Glacier Mountaineering, An Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue

Workshop
Beginner/Intermediate
Talkeetna, AMS HQ
2 days
8 students : 2 instructors
$650




Apply

Our glacier travel and crevasse rescue course’s day-to-day itinerary is designed to make sure you get the most out of an introduction to Alaska mountaineering. Your instructors introduce leadership and glacier travel skills in a progression that develops competent and self-reliant climbers.

Day 1

Meet at 8 a.m. at 13765 Third Street, Talkeetna, Alaska. We will have a group orientation and introductions, gear check, and rental issue. For the rest of the day we will be covering self-arrest, knots, rope identification and care, crampon techniques, and anchors.

Day 2

Meet instructors at the AMS headquarters on third street lot at 8 a.m. after eating your breakfast and being prepared to climb. At this time, we’ll issue any gear needed for the day’s activities, before going out to practice coiling, belaying, and stacking the ropes on the snow covered dry land glacier travel day. Students will form rope teams and practice traveling roped. The day will also include practicing crevasse rescue scenarios. We will introduce mechanical advantage and raising systems. We plan to be wrapping up at 5 p.m. to de-issue any rental and group gear.

Workshop
Beginner/Intermediate
Talkeetna, AMS HQ
2 days
8 students : 2 instructors
$650




Apply

Participants are expected to be in average athletic condition, but no climbing experience is required. This is an entry level course with an extensive curriculum, so come prepared to receive a lot of information.

Two options that will help prepare you for this workshop:

  1. Read Glacier Mountaineering: The Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue by Mike Clelland and Andy Tyson. We will send you this as an E-Book. AMS instructors wrote this book and it reflects what we teach on this course.
  2. Practice these two basic climbing knots with a six-foot piece of 6 mm cord available at climbing shops: Figure 8 on a Bite and Double Fisherman’s.

Workshop
Beginner/Intermediate
Talkeetna, AMS HQ
2 days
8 students : 2 instructors
$650




Apply

The instructors were highly competent and showed an exceptional level of care and concern for each and every student regardless of their skill level and abilities. 
— Sean Lowther, Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Workshop

This Workshop is hands-down worth every penny! The guides make sure you leave with the skills and knowledge to tackle any glacier scenario. I will definitely be doing more workshops with AMS. 
— Kent Lockman


Denali Prep Course

Denali Prep Course

Intermediate
10,500′ / 3,200m

9 students : 3 Instructors
10 days
$5,300




Apply

The course goal is to prepare each participant to be a responsible, organized, and competent climber and team member for a future West Buttress expedition. In many ways, this course mirrors a Denali climb: It is outfitted the same, flies to the same landing strip, and shares the lower portion of the West Buttress route. This snow ridge is relatively straightforward, but there are many route-finding objectives to take into consideration. Slopes need constant avalanche hazard evaluation, crevasses break into the ridge, and moderately steep slopes must be navigated to get onto the ridge. We will ferry loads throughout the trip in true expedition style, all the while becoming better mountaineers. If you’re looking for a longer course with a more thorough avalanche and technical climbing curriculum, check out our 12-Day Mountaineering Course.


Features

  • Mountaineering skills progression specific for the West Buttress climber
  • Crevasse rescue, roped glacier travel, and moving camp
  • Snow camping: walls, igloos
  • Glacier camping, winter survival skills
  • Leadership and Expedition Behavior skills: fundamental tools for a successful expedition
  • Team skills: leadership, expedition planning, and group dynamics
  • First aid classes: frostbite, hypothermia, altitude-related illnesses
  • Travel on the glacier with snowshoes

Intermediate
10,500′ / 3,200m

9 students : 3 Instructors
10 days
$5,300




Apply
Schedule

May 21 – 30, 2025

What's Included

  • Professional instructors
  • Round Trip Glacier Flight
  • All food during your course and team lunch at AMS HQ on day 1
  • All group camping and climbing equipment: ropes, tents, pickets, technical climbing gear, snow saws, wands
  • Sled for each student, pre-rigged for roped glacier travel
  • Snow Kitchen Equipment: community kitchen tent, cooking stoves, utensils, and fuel
  • Mountain communications: emergency use satellite phone, FRS on-mountain radios, Delorme In-Reach
  • Maps, GPS
  • Medical Protocols, first aid, medication and repair kits
  • Fully equipped staging area at AMS HQ and AMS Mountain Gear shop in Talkeetna.
  • 24/7 support staff at AMS in Talkeetna during your course
  • Regular social media updates during your climb
  • Pre-course assistance with travel planning and training advice
  • Post-course lodging and shuttle logistics
  • Luggage Storage and free parking during your expedition
  • Post-climb welcome back table with fresh fruit and drinks
  • Knowledgeable staff to assist with lodging and shuttle logistics

Intermediate
10,500′ / 3,200m

9 students : 3 Instructors
10 days
$5,300




Apply

This expedition starts at Denali’s West Buttress Base Camp (7200′) on the Kahiltna Glacier. The expedition follows the West Buttress route until approximately 10,000′ and then veers west for the summit of the Kahiltna Dome. Weather and snow conditions will ultimately determine our progression, so our style on the mountain is flexible and will fluctuate on a 24 hour basis. Additionally, the abilities, condition, and desires of the expedition members play an important role in realizing any itinerary.

The Denali Prep course day-to-day itinerary is designed to get the most out of an introduction to Alaska mountaineering. Your instructors teach wilderness, leadership, and technical climbing skills in a progression that develops competent and self-reliant climbers. By course end, you will have learned to identify and manage hazards and have increased your technical knowledge in all aspects of glacier and alpine climbing.

Instructor Briefing and Packing Days
Your instructors dedicate two days before the start date to prepare by briefing, checking equipment, and packing food. Stoves are fired up, tents are set up, radios are checked, and ropes are inspected. We adhere to the motto, “Prior planning prevents p*** poor performance.”


This itinerary should be considered a rough guide:

Day 1
8:00 am: Meet at AMS for course orientation and overview of the day. Check equipment and issue gear. Pack lunches. Calculate weights. This is a busy day, so please be on time. 12:00 pm: Lunch provided at AMS. Lasagna and salad. 1:00 pm: Learn intro to fixed line ascension at AMS’ crevasse rescue facility. Classes: Knots, use of waist and chest harness and helmet, ascending techniques, and releasing the backpack. 4:00 pm: Load van. 3-minute drive to ranger station and airport. Organize loads for fixed-wing flights. 4:30 pm: Fly onto the glacier. Reorganize loads for glacier travel. After a snowshoe-use orientation, rope up and travel a short distance and establish camp: probe and wand the perimeter, build walls, make sleeping platforms, set up group kitchen, establish the bathroom. 6:00 pm: Make dinner; students learn camp cooking. Practice: Site selection, tent spacing, shovel and snow saw use, wall building, tent pitching, hygiene and sanitation, group kitchen basics, stove use and care, cooking basics, bomb proofing the camp, staying warm at night. Evening discussion: Course Goals.

Day 2
9:00 am–12:00 pm: Practice: more knots, rope identification and care, rope handling and coiling, snow protection and anchor systems, and belaying. Incorporate load-cell to accurately measure forces when testing anchors. 1:00 pm–6:00 pm: Discuss: roping up for glacier travel, rope travel techniques, simple crevasse fall scenarios, transferring a load, snow climbing techniques, use of ice axe, self-arrest. Head out of camp for glacier travel. Evening discussion: Leadership.

Day 3
9:00 am–5:00 pm: Meet with daypacks ready for a full day away from camp. Students organize themselves into rope teams. Group heads to crevasse for self-rescue practice: the site is secured, and anchors are built for lowering and raising systems. Practice: Lowering systems, raising systems, crevasse fall scenarios. Evening discussion: Expedition Behavior (EB).

Day 4
Pack up camp and move to 7,800 ft, Camp 2, at the base of Ski Hill; distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 600 ft. Practice: Breaking down camp, caches, sled rigging, navigation techniques, choosing a safe camp, building a latrine. Evening discussion: Altitude-related Illnesses and Cold Injuries.

Day 5
Carry to 10,500’, probe out area, and cache supplies. Return to camp; student led rope teams. Evening discussion: Meteorology, Forecasting, Geology and Glaciology of Denali National Park and Preserve.

Day 6
Move to 10,500 ft and build Camp 3. Student led rope teams. Discuss: Quarries and Building Walls.

Day 7
Classes all day from camp. Practice snow climbing, crampon use, self-arrest, running protection, fixed lines.

Day 8
Summit day, 12,525 ft.

Day 9
Move back to Camp 2, 7800’. Student led rope teams. Evening discussion: Expedition planning.

Day 10
Alpine start, pack up and move back to airstrip. Student led rope teams. Fly back to Talkeetna, enjoy green grass and welcome back fruit platter, de-issue equipment, graduation ceremony.

Intermediate
10,500′ / 3,200m

9 students : 3 Instructors
10 days
$5,300




Apply

This course requires excellent mental and physical condition. You must be able to carry a 40-50lb pack while pulling a 30-40 pound sled for 5 hours with breaks, and be comfortable living and tent camping in a remote mountain environment without road access. This course requires having a basic understanding of the material covered in the Illustrated Guide to Crevasse Rescue which will be sent to you upon enrollment.

Intermediate
10,500′ / 3,200m

9 students : 3 Instructors
10 days
$5,300




Apply

Well organized, great guides, wonderful scenery. This is a course everyone should take before attempting a Denali summit trip. —Tom Egan

I was the oldest member of the team at age 61. The guides were super and spent a little extra time ensuring that I was learning and having fun at the same time. Highly recommend AMS.—Jerry Chabino

Whether responding to questions, selling gear or training me for increasing mountaineering skills, they are friendly organized and very professional. I am very satisfied with AMS and highly recommend them for Alaska Mountain Guides.—Taka Watanabe

It is rare when you’re finding lessons fun and with people you’d enjoy taking out for a beer. I never thought I’d wish for a storm day to stretch out the trip a few more days to hang out and climb more. Thanks.—Tery Wong

I can’t imagine a better guide service. The skills taught will last a lifetime. The trip planning, logistics, food, equipment, guides were first rate.—Richard Silber

If your climbing schedule takes you to Alaska, AMS offer the best in class experience. The Alaska Experts!—Pat Loftus