Mt. Hunter

It’s difficult to judge the grade and schedule of this climb as so much depends on current snow conditions. Expect mostly fourth class terrain with the occasional fifth class section and fixed lines in the access couloir to the ridge. Our style on the mountain will be flexible so that we’re adaptable to conditions. We’ll climb expedition style, ferrying loads and placing fixed line, before establishing ourselves on the crest of the West Ridge. We’ll make the second camp on the ridge in a single move and this will serve as our high camp. Extra time is built into the itinerary to accommodate for bad weather or conditions that might require a third camp on the ridge.

AMS’s approach to guided climbs is aligned with our mission as a school of mountaineering: Mt. Hunter’s summit is our projected destination, but our focus will be on the means of getting there, pushing every day to increase our mountaineering skills and performance. We expect all members to share the ultimate goal of becoming better climbers on our expeditions.

This itinerary is a rough guide and outlines a possible schedule. With clear weather, most expeditions return a day or two early. Unflyable weather and storms at high camp may mean extending the climb by a few days.

Day 1

8:00 a.m., meet for orientation, gear check, NPS registration, pack lunches, fixed lines; 3:30 p.m., fly to Base Camp, 7,200 ft, distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6,850 ft.

Day 2

Move to 7,000 ft, Camp 1, at the entrance to the Northwest Fork of the West Ridge. Distance: 3 miles, elevation loss 200 ft.

Day 3

Move to 8,600 ft, Camp 2. Distance: 0.5 mile, elevation gain: 1,600 ft.

 

Day 4

Carry to the West Ridge, 10,200 ft. Establish fixed lines. Distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 1,600 ft.

Day 5

Move to 10,200 ft, Camp 3. Distance: 0.5 mile, elevation gain: 1,600 ft.

Day 6

Move to 10,800 ft, Camp 4. Distance: 0.75 mile, elevation gain: 200 ft.

Day 7

Rest day.

Day 8

Summit attempt. Distance: 4 miles roundtrip, elevation gain: 3,770 ft.

Days 9, 10, 11, 12

Weather days or move high camp to 12,900 ft.

Days 13, 14

Return to Base Camp, fly back to Talkeetna.

As an advanced climb, Mt. Hunter requires a significant amount of prior climbing experience and training. Don’t let the lower elevation of this climb fool you; it’s a mountain with all the challenges that give Alaskan climbs the reputation they deserve.The mountain is too severe to be learning some skills for the first time. Applicants should be in excellent physical condition and should have the following experience:

• Mountaineering climbs that required roped glacier travel, winter snow camping, fixed lines, and the extensive use of an ice axe and crampons.
Winter camping and travel experience for extended periods of time. This is essential training, since cold on Denali is a daily challenge.
• The figure-eight knot series, rope coiling, and belaying with a munter hitch should be second nature
• Ability to arrest a fall on a steep snow slope with a pack

A fantastic and challenging trip run by knowledgeable and hard working guides. — Ken Seavey

AMS has their act together — extremely knowledgeable and flexible. Everyone within AMS went out of their way to make sure we had a fun, safe, and successful expedition. I will definitely recommend them to others. — Matt Barbour