Mt. Foraker

We climb the Sultana Ridge of Mt. Foraker in a combination of expedition and alpine styles. We will ferry loads, expedition-style, until we establish ourselves at the base of the Sultana Ridge. We make the first camp on the ridge in a single move, and this will be our high camp. The extra time built into the schedule is to accommodate bad weather or conditions that might require a third camp on the ridge. AMS’s approach to guided climbs falls in line with our mission as a school of mountaineering. Mt. Foraker’s summit is a logical end goal, but we will focus on the means of getting there, pushing every day to increase our mountaineering skills and performance. We expect all members to share a goal of becoming better climbers on our expeditions.

Weather and snow conditions will ultimately determine our progress on the mountain. This itinerary is a rough guide and outlines the anticipated schedule. Our style on the mountain is flexible and will fluctuate on a 24-hour basis. With lucky weather, most expeditions return a day or two early. However, delays at the start with unflyable weather and storms at high camp may result in our running out of time. It is possible for us to extend the length of the expedition for those who have a flexible schedule and desire to tough it out for a few extra days at high camp. There is a cost associated with this to compensate the guides.

Day 1
1:00 p.m., meet at AMS: Orientation and gear check, with time to rent or purchase gear from the AMS store and to select and pack mountain lunches. 4:00 p.m. team NPS reg-istration and orientation. You are free at 6:00 p.m. to enjoy the evening in Talkeetna.

Day 2
8:00 a.m., meet at AMS: Denali skills review, lunch at AMS; final packing, weighing, and loading gear for a 2:00 p.m. flight to Kahiltna SE Fork Base Camp, 7,200 ft; distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6,850 ft.

Day 3
Move to Advanced Base Camp, 6,600 ft, at the base of Mt. Crosson’s Southeast Ridge, distance: 3.4 miles.

Day 4
Carry to Camp 1 on Crosson’s Southeast Ridge, distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 1,800 ft.

Day 5
Move to Camp 1 (8,300 ft), distance: 0.5 mile, elevation gain: 1,700 ft.

Day 6
Carry to Camp 2 distance: 1.2 miles, elevation gain: 2,000 ft.

Day 7
Move to Camp 2 (10,400 ft), distance: 0.6 mile, elevation gain: 2,100 ft.

Day 8
Carry up and over Mt. Crosson to Camp 3, distance: 3 miles, elevation gain: 1,750 ft.

Day 9
Move up and over Mt. Crosson to Camp 3 (12,150’), distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain: 1,750 ft.

Day 10
Carry up and around peak 12,472 ft to a ridge cache site, Technical and exposed terrain, distance: 3.3 miles, elevation gain: 900, elevation loss: 1,400 ft.

Day 11
Move up around peak 12,472 ft, to Camp 4 (halfway to Ridge Camp, 11,700 ft.), Technical and exposed terrain, 3.3 miles, elevation gain: 900 ft., elevation loss: 1,400 ft.

Day 12
Move across ridge to Camp 5 at the base of the Sultana Ridge (11,700’). Technical and exposed terrain, distance: 1.5 miles. Moderate elevation loss and gain throughout day.

Days 13, 14, 15, 16
Summit days, sustained, exposed terrain, distance: 1.25 miles, elevation gain: 5,900 ft.

Days 17, 18, 19
Return to Kahiltna SE Fork Base Camp, distance: 9.5 miles, elevation loss: 2,400 ft. Then fly to Talkeetna.

Days 20, 21, 22
Weather days.

The more climbing experience you have prior to climbing Foraker, the more comfortable and safe you will be, and the better chance you will have of summiting. This is an advanced climb that requires a dedicated training regime. The mountain is too severe to be learning some skills for the first time. Applicants should be in excellent physical condition at the start of the expedition and should have the following experience:

• Steep mountaineering climbs that required roped glacier travel, winter snow camping, and the extensive use of an ice axe and crampons in exposed locations
• Winter camping and winter travel experience
• Climbing knots, rope handling, and belaying should be second nature
• Ability to arrest a fall on a steep, icy snow slope

Climbing with AMS was and still is one of the best experiences of my life! From the moment I arrived until the moment I left, I was treated like part of the AMS family. I’ve climbed with a couple other outfitters, but NOTHING compares to the family environment that AMS has. The professionalism is second to none and the skills and resources that the guides have are unbelievable. They are not just “guiding” but they are also committed and involved in the climb and want to summit as much as the clients. Even when returning to Talkeetna on my own to climb AMS welcomed me back opened theirs doors and STILL treated me like part of their family. —Nick Miller

I would rate this trip 10 out of 10. I would eagerly do another trip with your fine outfit in the future. — John Fox

I’ve learned more in two short trips with AMS than I learned in 6 trips with another well known guide service. I will only use AMS for my trips to the Alaska Range! — Brian Beyerl