Kahiltna Peaks Expedition
Advanced
10,000′ – 13,000′
3,048m – 3,962m
10 Days
Max: 4 climbers, 2 guides
$6,300
The Kahiltna Peaks Expedition is designed for those who wish to climb some of the amazing peaks that line the Kahiltna Glacier off Denali. AMS has called this area The Playground for good reason; it has a high concentration of good quality routes for the experienced climber. For the past 30 years we have been taking climbers here who wish to advance their skills. We will access the mountains by ski plane and start by reviewing glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques. After a warm up climb where we review snow and ice climbing techniques, we will break down camp and move towards our climbing objective. In the past we have climbed West Kahiltna Peak, East Kahiltna Peak, Mt. Crosson, Mt. Francis, Kahiltna Queen, and Kahiltna Dome.
Advanced
10,000′ – 13,000′
3,048m – 3,962m
10 Days
Max: 4 climbers, 2 guides
$6,300
Schedule
April 12-21, 2025
What's Included
- AMS professional mountain guides
- Roundtrip glacier flight
- Expedition food, including lunches
- Group camping and climbing equipment (tents, ropes, snow/ice protection, kitchens)
- Emergency supplies (maps/ GPS, radios, satellite phone; repair, trauma and drug kits)
- Pre-rigged custom sleds
- 24/7 support during the expedition from AMS headquarters
- Knowledgeable advice for training, equipment, and travel
- Regular updates on social media during the expedition
- Copy of the book Glacier Mountaineering by Tyson & Clelland
Advanced
10,000′ – 13,000′
3,048m – 3,962m
10 Days
Max: 4 climbers, 2 guides
$6,300
The Kahiltna Peaks expedition’s sample day-to-day itinerary is designed to get the most out of the number of days available to climb.
Guide Briefing and Packing Days
Your guides dedicate two days before the start date to prepare by briefing, checking equipment, and packing food. Stoves are fired up, tents are set up, radios are checked, and ropes are inspected. We adhere to the motto, “Prior planning prevents poor performance.”
Day 1
8:00 am: Meet at AMS for expedition orientation and overview of the day. Check equipment and issue gear. Pack lunches. Calculate weights. This is a busy day, so please be on time.
12:00 pm: Lunch provided at AMS
1:00 pm: Review fixed-line ascension, knots, use of waist and chest harness and helmet, ascending techniques, and releasing the backpack.
3:30 pm: Load van. 3-minute drive to the airport. Organize loads for fixed-wing flights.
4:00 pm: Fly onto the glacier and set up the first camp
7:00 pm: Have dinner and head to bed
Day 2
Meet with day packs ready for a full day of travel out of our base camp. You and your guides will assess snow conditions and review snow climbing techniques, self-arrest, belaying, running protection, and anchor building.
Day 3
Warm up on a shorter climb near your base camp and practice climbing techniques. Peak Options include east ridge of Mt. Frances or Radio Tower Peak.
Day 4
Pack up and move camp towards climbing objective. Example: East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to climb the south ridge of East Kahiltna Peak.
Day 5
Climb part way up the route and make high camp. East Kahiltna Peak.
Day 6
Climb to the summit and return to high camp.
Day 7
Descend to Kahiltna Glacier, rest and re-organize.
Day 8
Climb multi-pitch route on south side of West Kahiltna Peak
Day 9
Travel across the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and climb a multi-pitch ice route on Denali’s Southeast Buttress.
Day 10
Pack up and move back to the airstrip, SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Meet our air taxi flight and return to Talkeetna; enjoy welcome-back watermelon. De-issue equipment and rental gear.
Advanced
10,000′ – 13,000′
3,048m – 3,962m
10 Days
Max: 4 climbers, 2 guides
$6,300
This expedition requires excellent mental and physical condition. You must be comfortable climbing and camping in exposed and steep locations, be able to carry a 50lb pack while pulling a 40lb sled and be comfortable camping in a remote wilderness mountain environment. This expedition requires a good understanding of the material covered in the Illustrated Guide to Crevasse Rescue, which will be sent to you upon enrollment. You must arrive with a prior knowledge of climbing knots, roped belaying, and rappelling techniques. Please contact us if you need clarification.
Fitness: Mountaineering in Alaska is more like a marathon than a sprint. You need stamina to carry you through multiple days of activity. Be prepared to be physically active every day for 8-12 hours of climbing, glacier travel, and building camp.
Advanced
10,000′ – 13,000′
3,048m – 3,962m
10 Days
Max: 4 climbers, 2 guides
$6,300
“I have had two consecutive fantastic experiences with AMS. I can’t say enough about how hard our guides worked from start to finish. Not just with day-to-day tasks but with engagement and support.”
—Tom Loftus, 2023
