History

The seed that grew into Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS) was planted in 1983 when Brian and Diane Okonek were awarded one of six commercial mountain guide permits for Denali expeditions from the US government, Department of the Interior, Denali National Park and Preserve. The Okoneks, who lived in Talkeetna, were savvy mountain guides with scrupulously high standards. One of Brian’s first students was AMS co-founder Colby Coombs. During their Denali climb, in which they endured storms and helped in rescues before summiting, a destiny was charted. After that climb, Colby went on to instruct at various branches for NOLS.  Caitlin Palmer studied outdoor education with Outward Bound, NOLS, and Prescott College, she moved to Alaska for mountain work in 1993 and taught at University of Alaska-Anchorage Outdoor Studies department and lead wilderness hikes in Denali National Park. Together, they guided Denali expeditions under the Okoneks’ leadership.

The early years at AMS were based out of a dry one-room log cabin in downtown Talkeetna, Alaska. They were exciting grassroots times we offered mountaineering courses and custom climbs in Denali National Park and Preserve and high altitude climbs in South America.  AMS has grown to offer guided Denali, Mt. Hunter, and Mt. Foraker expeditions, custom technical climbs throughout the Alaska Range, mountaineering course, remote film support, and specialized training programs for both active duty and veteran military. An informal history from 2007 to present can be found within our blog entries.

AMS embodies the best of the big and the best of the small. AMS’s co-founders understand the importance of combining field standards, professional outfitting facilities, and administrative support. With over thirty years of climbing instruction and guiding on Denali, the AMS founders know that the true strength and value of any mountain guide company is in its guides. All AMS guides, instructors, interns, and owners know each other and eat at the same table. At its very foundation, AMS nurtures a spirit of camaraderie and trust that remains constant.

1983  Diane and Brian Okonek’s Alaska Denali Guiding, Inc. (ADG) awarded Denali National Park mountaineering concession contract.

1996  Colby Coombs and Caitlin Palmer start Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS), from a one-room log cabin. That year, leading climbs on Mt. Hunter in the Alaska Range and on Mt. Aconcagua in Argentina.

1997  Mountaineers Books publish Denali’s West Buttress, A Climbers Guide written by Colby Coombs, notable contributions from include Bradford Washburn.

2001  Colby and Caitlin purchase ADG; AMS and ADG are jointly operated companies.

2003  Alaska Mountaineering School, LLC becomes the sole entity on our concession permit to offer Denali, South American Guiding and Mountaineering Courses.

2005  Denali’s Deadly Ascent, a NOVA episode featuring Caitlin and Colby, airs on WGBH Boston public television.

2010 Over 400 students joined us this year on guided Denali expeditions and technical climbs, youth programs, medical training, mountaineering courses, wilderness hikes, and remote film support.

2013 Successfully led the Centennial Muldrow Expedition on Denali’s Muldrow route with direct ancestors of first ascendents of Denali, Mt. Foraker’s Sultana Ridge, and Mt. Kilimanjaro with a team from Combat Wounded Veteran Challenge.

2015  AMS awarded long-term military contract to train Navy SEALs on Denali.

2017  Five AMS Mountain Guides; Wesley Bunch, Larry Holmgren, Lexie Hunsaker, Jake Kayes, and Chris Welch provided critical help during a high-altitude rescue on Denali and received the prestigious Denali National Park Service’s Mislow–Swanson Denali Pro Award.

2020 During the global pandemic, AMS stayed open offering custom programs, including subsidized programs for local teens.

2023 AMS Guide, Michael Gardner, received Mislow–Swanson Denali Pro Award for his mountain stewardship and critical help during high altitude rescue on the West Buttress route.

2024 Began our first annual all women’s Denali expedition, notably led by an all-female guide team.

2025 Led a custom ski ascent and descent of Denali’s, West Buttress route, an expedition ten years in the planning.