" If you want to climb in Alaska, use AMS. Their knowledge and experience in this area is unparalleled. "

— Brent Erickson, Advanced Mountaineering Course

" The AMS 12 day Advanced MTC provided me with an excellent opportunity to learn winter camping, glacier mountaineering, and safe climbing skills from some of the most experienced instructors around. I'm looking forward to using the skills I learned on many future expeditions, including Denali with AMS. "

— Tom Mays, Advanced MTC

" I learned heaps and tons and bunches. When can I go again? "

— Meg McKinney Larsen, Advanced MTC

Advanced Mountaineering Course

The Advanced Mountaineering Course provides experienced climbers the opportunity to learn and apply new skills in a challenging mountaineering environment. Focus is placed on decision-making skills necessary for making successful peak ascents in the Alaska Range. With instructors' guidance, students evaluate terrain, identify hazards, and make route-finding decisions.

The goal of this course is to broaden students' mountaineering experience and develop good judgment to climb in any remote mountain region. After a review of the basics for an Alaska expedition, glacier travel, and winter camping, the course focuses on specific climbing objectives. Peak ascents are chosen to complement classes on climbing techniques. The course breaks camp and moves to new locations to explore and climb in a variety of terrain. Short-pitching, aid climbing, technical descents, avalanche curriculum, and backcountry skiing are all on the agenda. Students receive verbal and written evaluations at the end of the course.

COURSE SPECIFICATIONS:

Deposit: $250 (Balance Due: 60 days prior to the starting date.)

Group Limit: 6 students, 2 AMS Instructors

Tuition Includes: Instruction, glacier flight, food and fuel, group camping equipment, group climbing equipment, camping at AMS in Talkeetna.

You are responsible for: Transportation to and from Talkeetna, lodging in Talkeetna, National Park Service Entrance Fee ($10), travelers' cancellation insurance, personal equipment and clothing.

FEATURES OF THIS COURSE:

1:3 instructor/student ratio up to 6 participants
Mountaineering skills: glacier travel, multi-pitch, aid, rock and ice climbing
Apply skills to peak ascents
Snow camping: walls, caves, igloos, quinzees, trenches
Avalanche curriculum: mechanics, transceiver searches, snow morphology
Rescue scenarios and techniques to reach a fallen climber
First aid classes: frostbite, hypothermia, altitude-related illnesses
Travel on the glacier with skis, downhill and uphill progression

EXPEDITION STYLE AND REMOTENESS

AMS mountaineering courses are self-reliant expeditions that travel in remote mountain range in Alaska. Throughout the course, students learn to live safely in a glaciated environment, prepare their own meals, care for themselves, and climb mountains. The course format emphasizes hands-on learning and the application of new skills in a variety of terrain. If the weather is unflyable, evacuation to modern medical facilities can be difficult and may take up to several days. AMS courses model climbing and camping techniques that prepare students to pursue mountaineering in the most severe environments.

ENVIRONMENT AND COURSE LOCATION

The advanced mountaineering course flies into Denali National Park & Preserve, home to America's biggest and wildest mountains. Two days prior to the start date instructors will choose the specific mountain region and glacier for the course. They look for pristine wilderness and good quality climbing routes suitable for teaching our mountaineering progression. The exact location will depend on current snow and landing conditions. Each of the areas chosen hold their own variety of terrain, beauty, and isolation and each is challenging and demands respect. The routes are classic for a mountaineering expedition in Alaska. Expect to be on snow for the duration of the course and be prepared to encounter all types of weather and conditions. Alaska is full of surprises!

COURSE PROGRESSION

The goal of this course is to broaden students' mountaineering experience and develop good judgment to climb in any remote mountain region. After a review of the basics for an Alaska expedition, glacier travel, and winter camping, the course focuses on specific climbing objectives. Peak ascents are chosen to complement classes on climbing techniques. The group breaks camp and moves to new locations to explore and climb in a variety of terrain. Short-pitching, aid climbing, technical descents, avalanche curriculum, and backcountry skiing are all on the agenda. Students receive verbal and written evaluations at the end of the course.

FOOD

AMS provides all of the food for this course however; we ask that you bring one pound of your favorite lunch food. This will be used to supplement what we have for you and ensures that you have your preferred snack foods.

COURSE OBJECTIVES

Mountaineering courses vary in length, route, and environmental conditions. Working with these variables, instructors strive for the following goals for each student.

SAFETY AND JUDGMENT

AMS teaches mountaineering skills, which promote the health and safety of all expedition members. Each graduate is expected to:

demonstrate knowledge of the hazards in a glaciated mountain environment
participate in making sound decisions affecting the health and safety of the expedition
display knowledge of personal limitations and the judgment to stay within them

LEADERSHIP AND TEAMWORK

Students are exposed to theory and practice of outdoor leadership, teamwork and expedition behavior. Each graduate is expected to:

work effectively as a team member
demonstrate sound expedition behavior, commitment to the group, a positive attitude, and cooperation to achieve group goals
effectively communicate ideas and concerns with individuals and within a group
show initiative in teaching and leading peers
employ leadership styles appropriate to the situation; support others in the leadership role
use decision-making and planning skills to participate fully in a safe, environmentally sound expedition

ENVIRONMENTAL ETHICS

An important part of every course is to teach and practice Leave-No-Trace camping and traveling techniques. Each graduate is expected to:

perform minimum impact living and traveling skills appropriate to a glaciated environment
show respect for pristine wilderness and fostering respect in others

WINTER CAMPING AND GLACIER TRAVEL

AMS courses focus on teaching and practicing efficient and responsible backcountry skills.
Each graduate is expected to:

live comfortably and efficiently in a glaciated mountain environment, camp, cook, and dress for a variety of conditions
travel competently using safe and efficient navigation and route-finding techniques to reduce and avoid hazards
demonstrate roped glacier travel techniques using skis or snow shoes and lead rope a team
take responsibility for the organization, maintenance, and repair of group and personal equipment

MOUNTAINEERING SKILLS

The course goal is to advance all students' climbing ability and make them well-rounded mountaineers.
Each graduate is expected to:

master knots and various rope-handling techniques
demonstrate proficient crampon and ice ax techniques for snow, ice and/or mixed terrain
demonstrate belay skills: fixed line, running belays, glacier travel
master protection placement and anchor building techniques
competently set up a rope system for glacier travel
comprehend lead climbing theory and application
consistently perform techniques to reduce and avoid hazards
recognize and avoid avalanche terrain
demonstrate the ability to remain composed and thoughtful in difficult and exposed terrain
competently lead a rope team on a safe route on a glacier
establish a skill base to successfully climb a mountain such as Denali

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Website by: Sayre Coombs and Anya Zolotusky

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