Alaska Mountaineering School
" A great and talented team showed me not only Denali, but also taught me a great deal about mountaineering. "
— Hynek Dvorak, Denali West Buttress
Alaska Mountaineering School Alaska Mountaineering School Alaska Mountaineering School

The First Day: Expeditions

Your should first arrive at AMS at 3:00pm the day before your scheduled expedition start date. Your guides will provide and expedition and safety orientation, you will pack your lunches and go through a gear check. Guides will also issue any items needed to be sure you are properly outfitted. You'll be free at 6:00pm to enjoy a evening in Talkeetna.

On your expedition start date, the team will meet at 8:00 AM at the AMS headquarters in Talkeetna. This is a busy day that ends at base camp on the Kahiltna glacier, so please be on time and take care of all personal business beforehand. You may wish to start your day with a hearty breakfast at one of the local restaurants. We'll have hot drinks and fresh baked goods available when you arrive.

Upon arrival, your guides will review technical skills for the climb: roped glacier travel, sled rigging, fixed line ascension, ensure packs are rigged for glacier travel, ice axe leashes, and double check that you have all the necessary hardware for your glacier rig. A tasty lunch is provided at AMS . After lunch as a team you will go to the NPS Ranger station in Talkeetna for the required briefing and fee payments.

Next, we pack, dress, and fly onto the glacier in a ski-equipped, fixed-wing Cessna 185, DeHaviland Beaver or DHC Otter. The 30-45 minute flight into Denali National Park is the quickest way to access the snowy, glaciated peaks of the Alaska Range; the flight is a spectacular and memorable highlight. Once you arrive at the glacier, the rest of the evening will consist of campsite selection, tent spacing, group kitchen set up, and of course, dinner.

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